When was tartan in fashion




















It was only when the victorious Hanoverians banned the plaid after the battle of Culloden that it acquired a romantic glamour and political symbolism which the Jacobites were able to exploit. The concept of exclusivity, that a certain pattern could and should only be worn by a person entitled by blood or regiment to do so, was introduced when, in the late eighteenth century, tartans were designed as part of the new military uniforms for the Highland regiments.

The result, codified in various nineteenth century catalogues, all highly imaginative, has been the development of a slightly awed and inhibited attitude to tartan. Rather be seen in an old school tie you have no right to than a tartan which resonates not at all with your genes.

In addition, the style of dress in which tartan was traditionally employed became the only style, thanks to Scottish Dance Societies, Highland Games and hairy-kneed Scottish regiments, in which it could be used. Thus it entered the area of national and fancy dress — an area with which fashion has only a nodding acquaintance.

Yet, Queen Victoria apart, fashion has, over the years, made several attempts to get on intimate terms with tartan. The French, for instance, wholeheartedly adore tartan and have always enjoyed using it both in traditional lace jabot and velvet jacket styles and unorthodox clashing layers of rich colour.

The Italians, always likely to get over-excited, regard them with a slightly guilty fascination, unsure whether they are terribly dashing or merely vulgar. In their confusion they tend to make certain of the latter quality by recolouring inoffensive plaids in exuberant acid shades, mightily at war with one another. The Japanese used to have a respectful attitude to the tartan, almost as mystical as that of the Brits, and loved the full King Over the Water fig.

Recently their own designers, led by Issey Miyake, have been experimenting with and developing their own subtly coloured woven plaids which are softer and quieter than the Scottish-inspired ones currently filling the shops.

East Linton, U. Morgan, Kenneth O. The Oxford History of Britain. Oxford: Oxford University Press, Scarlett, James D. Edited by John Butt and Kenneth Ponting. Aberdeen, U. Fashion History Fabrics and Fibers Tartan This cloth has powerful connections with often-romanticized notions of Scottish identity and history. Origins and Development The precise origins of tartan are not known; however, a fragment found in Falkirk, which dates from the third century C.

In the following law was passed: "No man or boy within … Scotland, shall, on any pretext whatever, wear or put on the clothes commonly called Highland clothes that is to say the Plaid, Philabeg, or little Kilt, Trowse, Shoulder-belts, or any part whatever of what peculiarly belongs to the Highland Garb; and that no tartan or party-colored plaid or stuff shall be used for Great Coats or upper coats, and if any such person shall presume after the said first day of August, to wear or put on the aforesaid garments or any part of them, every such person so offending … shall be liable to be transported to any of His Majesty's plantations beyond the seas, there to remain for the space of seven years.

Manufacture and Design From the mid-eighteenth century, tartan design and manufacture began to be carried out within large-scale commercial enterprises, rather than primarily being the concern of local weavers. Bibliography Cheape, Hugh. Tartan: The Highland Textile. London: Shepeard Walwyn, Traditional Scottish Wedding Dress. By Kimberly White. Origins of Pajamas. Manly Bedding Ideas for Guys.

Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Scottish Wedding Favors. By Monica Patrick. Style Notes: Tartan is so popular that even the minimalists are incorporating the pattern into their wardrobe.

Style Notes: Tartan dresses are surprisingly big news for winter, and they come in just about every style: pinafores, midi dresses, long-sleeved wraps and, of course, standout minis.

They're the perfect way to spin your party look into winter. Next up, 13 Instagram-approved winter outfits you can wear on repeat. Tartan Pants. Tartan Coat. Tartan Kilts. Tartan Blazers. Tartan Dresses. Explore More: Autumn Winter Outfits.



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